Kering's (PPRUF, Financial) turnaround hopes just hit a wall. Gucci—the group's biggest moneymaker—saw sales crash 25% last quarter, missing even bearish expectations. That's one of the worst drops since the pandemic. For a brand that once defined high-end cool, this is a loud alarm bell. The company is betting big on Demna, Balenciaga's edgy creative head, to revive Gucci. But with no debut collection in sight, the market's left waiting—and watching shares that are already down over 50% in the past year continue to bleed.
The luxury slowdown isn't just a Kering story. Even the strongest names like LVMH (LVMHF, Financial) and Hermès are losing steam, especially as Chinese consumers pull back and U.S. tariffs cloud the picture. Kering says it can raise prices to protect margins in the States—but pricing power only works when demand's still hot. And right now, global appetite for high fashion looks anything but.
This is shaping up to be a reset moment for the sector. A new creative lead might help Gucci eventually, but investors don't buy visions—they buy execution. Until there's proof Demna can deliver, and that Chinese buyers return in force, Kering stays stuck in limbo. And the risk? If Gucci slips further, it could drag the whole luxury complex down with it.
